What type of road bike should i buy

If you want to know more, including the full hierarchies of Shimano, SRAM and Campagnolo, read through our ultimate guide to road bike groupsets for all you need to know. Gear ratios on road bikes vary depending on the purpose of the bike. Gear ratios and range are a combination of the number of chainrings on the front of the bike and the number of teeth on those chainrings; and the number of cogs on the rear cassette and the number of teeth on those cogs. The majority of road bikes will have either two or three front chainrings, although three front chainrings known as a 'triple' are commonly reserved for recreational, entry-level or touring bikes.

While two chainrings is the norm, in recent times, some road bikes have followed the mountain bike trend of having a single chainring. Having a single chainring minimises potential mechanical issues and simplifies the shifting to the rear cassette. Bikes with two front chainrings are normally split into a 'regular', 'compact' or 'semi-compact', also called a 'mid-compact' set-up.

A regular set-up sees the large chainring with teeth and the small chainring with teeth and is most commonly used by professional riders and those racing. A compact set-up sees the large chainring with teeth and the small chainring with teeth which provides easier pedaling ratios when compared to a regular set-up.

A relatively new option, the semi-compact set-up is in between the two, the large chainring with teeth and the small chainring with teeth. The front chainring set-up is the foundation for the gear ratios which the cassette on the back compliments.

The cassette is made up of a number of cogs or sprockets which can be changed to make the gear ratio easier or harder. Modern-day cassettes feature 9, 10,11 or 12 cogs. The most common ratios on a cassette is an T or T whereby the smallest cog has teeth and the largest cog has either 25 or teeth. The cogs in between these two have a spread of teeth aimed to make shifting between gears smooth.

The larger the difference between the smallest and largest cog on the cassette, the greater the chain has to move and the less consistent a rider's cadence pedalling speed becomes between gear changes. Choosing a bike with smaller chainrings on the front and a larger ratio cassette on the back will provide a greater spread of gears and easier pedaling ratios.

A bike with larger front chainrings and a smaller ratio cassette on the back will be more targeted for speed and provide less range of gears. A road bike wheel consists of the hub which the wheel spins around, the spokes which connect the hub and the rim, the nipples which connect the spokes to the rim and the rim which is the round hoop of the wheel. A good set of wheels will be durable, have dependable hubs, provide confidence-inspiring braking, be stiff for power transfer, and also lightweight.

A wheel's rim width and depth will largely dictate how it rides and feels. The trend is for modern rims to be wider than previous generations to provide better aerodynamics and greater tyre air volume, resulting in improved comfort. This coincides with the shift to larger tyres that are said to improve rolling resistance as well as comfort by running at a lower pressure. The depth of the rim will affect the aerodynamics of the wheel and the handling of a bike. The deeper the rim, the more aerodynamic it will be, but also harder to handle given they will be more affected by side wind than a shallow rim.

For a more detailed guide on wheels and what to look out for, read our Road Bike wheels: What to Know article. It's worth knowing the three different tyre types that fit onto a wheel as they require a specific wheel rim. The majority of road bikes available for sale will feature clincher tyres which need an inner tube to hold air. Tubulars are typically reserved for sponsored professional, while tubeless is an emerging technology on the road, and is effectively a clincher tyre without the inner tube.

For more information, including a more in-depth description of the different types available, check out our guide to road bike tyres. Getting the right size bike is crucial. If you are comfortable on the bike it will provide a more enjoyable experience and you will want to ride it more; plus comfort equals speed.

Conversely, the incorrect sized bike will lead to discomfort, potential injury and a negative riding experience. Bike frames are commonly measured in centimeters representing the length of the seattube. A description of the frame size based on this measurement is then occasionally allocated, for example, a 51cm frame is considered a small. Each manufacturer will have different sizes and frame descriptions so a small for one brand may be a medium in another brand.

Similarly, different bike models from the same manufacturer may be different effective sizes with shared descriptions. For example, a 54cm lightweight bike and a 56cm aero bike might both be a medium. It's always best to check with the specific manufacturer and bike model to confirm. For more on geometry and how it affects a bike, check out our guide to geometry charts and what they mean.

Budget is the biggest question and the biggest limiting factor when purchasing a road bike. Regardless of your price range, you can pick up a great bike that will serve your purpose. Spending more money on a bike will typically but not always result in a reduction of weight, increased stiffness, improved shift quality, increased durability and greater comfort. The materials of the bike's frame and fork will change as the price increases, typically moving from steel to aluminium to carbon fibre.

Groupsets will have a similar progression starting with low grade steels, then progressing to higher grade alloys, then a mix of the highest grade alloys, carbon fibre and titanium. Wheelsets follow a similar path from aluminium to carbon fibre, with better and more durable bearings at higher price points. Bikes of this price range are targeted towards the recreational cyclist. They feature some performance elements but are mostly based on durability and versatility.

As a result, bikes in this price range will normally have an 8 or 9-speed cassette on the back with a double or triple crankset on the front providing either 16, 18, 24 or 27 gears for easy pedaling ratios. Rim brakes remain the common choice at this price, with discs being reserved for more expensive bikes. The frame is most likely to be made from aluminium or steel and the fork from a mix of aluminium and carbon.

The wheelset and tyres will be heavy and robust but can easily be upgraded to provide a more lively ride. At this price point the biggest question becomes whether to choose an aluminium or carbon fibre frame.

Both materials are capable of being lightweight, stiff and providing a comfortable ride. While the answer will vary based on specific brand, our advice is to typically pick a high-end alloy frame over a basic carbon one. As a side perk, the alloy-framed bikes will typically feature better components for the same money.

The focus of bikes in this price range shifts from recreational to performance. Total weight of the bike decreases, shifting becomes crisper and general speed typically increases. Performance features like aerodynamic tube profiles, deep profile wheels and race geometry can be found at this price point, as can advanced comfort features in endurance bikes. Meanwhile, disc brakes aim to offer increased stopping control especially in wet conditions , open up clearance for wider tyres, and are fast becoming the only option on a number of popular bikes from big brands.

For more, check out our complete FAQ to road disc brakes. It can take an experienced eye to tell the difference between wheels, but some key things to look for are rim width the trend is toward rims of at least 19 mm width , a high-quality build with even spoke tensions, and reputation for hub durability e.

DT Swiss and Shimano. Wheelset weight can also be a factor in how lively the bike feels. Typically the more you spend the more gears the bike will have and the smoother they will function. The vast majority of road bikes on the market today feature Shimano components, with competitors SRAM and Campagnolo appearing on higher-end bikes.

Those looking at Shimano Ultegra-level bikes or above will likely need to decide between mechanical versus electronic shifting follow the link for a full discussion on this topic. If given the choice, invest in a better frame and wheels before going with better derailleurs and shifters. The internet age has led to a relatively new decision for bike buyers: buy from a local bike shop or do it yourself online?

The former offers you hands-on service and perhaps access to a local riding community, while the latter more than likely has a price advantage.

Personally I believe that buying a bike online is best left to those who know exactly how they like their bikes to fit and are able to do basic maintenance themselves. For everyone else the hands-on experience and service a good local bike shop can provide has the potential to make a substantial difference to your enjoyment in cycling.

Closely following the last point is a decision over new and used. No doubt your money can go further with a used bike, but there are always risks associated with this. Gone are the days of a road bike being an ache to ride — you should be able to pedal without any discomfort.

Endurance-style bikes are designed for the masses and most riders are likely to be most comfortable on this style of bike which offers a more relaxed riding position.

Experienced bike shop staff will be able to advise you on the correct size bike and style for your needs. A 54 cm frame in one brand may be equivalent to a 56 cm in another, and the same applies for those labelled with small, medium and large. Thankfully there is a pretty good guide for how a bike will fit and compare to other bikes: stack and reach figures.

These two figures remain the most robust way of comparing the actual sizing between various bikes. We have a dedicated article about the importance of stack and reach in bike sizing. This final step is something I would have strongly suggested in the past, but current pandemic times have all but made this impossible. Bike availability is so limited at the moment that bike shops are no longer carrying demo fleets like they would have in the past.

If this is the case then listen to opinions from people you trust. Paul recently dusted off his old department store mountain bike after constantly hearing from his work colleagues about how great cycling is. Paul did two rides and then joined his work colleagues on a road ride, he got exhausted, then got dropped, and then pretended his bike had broken so the pain would end. Paul is now obsessed with cycling and wants a more appropriate bike for road bunch riding.

We believe Paul should look for an entry-level aluminium road bike with an endurance-type fit. They also have powerful brakes that use car- or motorcycle-style discs at the centre of the wheels, and more expensive machines will have suspension at both ends for better control over rough ground. The gearing is designed to get you up and down steep terrain, with a wide range to take on the varying gradients. Best thought of as the halfway point between a road bike and a mountain bike, a hybrid takes the comfy riding position of a mountain bike and pairs it with a lighter frame and fast-rolling wheels like those seen on a road bike.

Sitting in a more upright position may be less aerodynamically efficient but it also allows you to look further ahead, which is a huge boon in heavy urban traffic. Hybrid bikes often use more powerful disc brakes that give more consistent performance in wet weather, though at a slight weight penalty. If you need to bridge the gap between urban performance and confident handling, then our guide to the best hybrid bikes will give you all the information you need to know.

While a hybrid bike is best suited to the city, a touring bike is designed to take on everything from a commute to a continent-crossing adventure.

They tend to have the same fast-rolling c wheels as road and hybrid bikes, but with fatter tyres that allow you to take on a mixture of terrain in comfort. The more relaxed riding position and more stable geometry of a touring bike mean that you can take on almost anything, whether it be a mountain pass when fully loaded with supplies or a quick spin to work.

Gravel bikes combine road bike looks and speed with loads of frame clearance for fitting fat, knobbly tyres that can sometimes be 35mm-wide or more to get you across almost any terrain, including terrible tarmac, gloopy mud, bridleways, gravel paths and more. You can find adventure bikes made from steel, aluminium, carbon and titanium, and at a range of prices from the affordable to the aspirational. Adventure bikes that take luggage typically frame bags, saddle bags and bar bags are used for bikepacking, which is essentially touring, but with perceived better fashion sense and hashtags.

Interested in a gravel bike? Our list of the best gravel bikes will help you find the perfect one for your needs. Cyclocross bikes are similar in concept to the bikes listed above, but are designed for the racing discipline of cyclocross. Their geometry is typically more aggressive than that of gravel and adventure bikes, making them a less attractive proposition for longer days in the saddle.

They have flat or upright handlebars, and a very low gear range for pedaling up steep trails. Most mountain bikes have some type of shock absorbers or suspension. Mountain bikes with front suspension only are called hardtails ; mountain bikes with both front and rear suspension are called full-suspension bikes or duallies. Mountain bikes with no suspension are called rigid. Mountain bikes can be outfitted for use as touring or commuting bikes, although they would not be as light or efficient as traditional touring or commuting bikes.

Fat bikes , with their extremely wide tires, are included in the mountain bike category. Hybrid Bicycles were originally conceived to provide the advantages of both road bikes and mountain bikes.

Their large, padded seats and upright handlebars provide a comfortable riding position, and are best for casual riding around the neighborhood or bike paths, short-distance commuting, and errands around town. They can be ridden on paved roads, but are not as lightweight or efficient as road bikes. They are ideal for paved or unpaved bike trails, but are not appropriate for rough off-road mountain bike trails.

The tires are usually a medium-width with a semi-smooth tread, to provide a fairly smooth ride on pavement, but enough grip and cushion on unpaved trails. Most hybrid bikes have front suspension to smooth out small bumps, but some are fully rigid. Hybrid bikes used to also be referred to as cross bikes , but that term is not used any more in order to avoid confusion with cyclocross bikes see above. Dual-Sport Bicycles are a sub-category of hybrid bikes oriented towards riders who want the multi-surface versatility of a hybrid bike, but want a little more aggressive style and riding position.

They have a flat or upright handlebar, although not as upright as regular hybrid bikes; they usually have a smaller, more performance-oriented seat, rather than a large comfort seat. Most have front suspension. Dual-sport bikes make good commuter bikes, and are also good for touring on unpaved trails.

Cruiser Bicycles are similar to hybrid bikes, in that they are designed for casual riding, and have a very comfortable, upright riding position, and a large, comfortable seat.

Cruisers usually have wide "balloon" tires, and handlebars that are even more upright, and in some cases, swept back compared to hybrid bikes. Most cruiser bikes are single-speed or 3-speed, and have the old-fashioned coaster brake where you pedal backwards to stop.

They can be used for short-distance commuting and errands, as long as your route is fairly flat. Some cruiser bike manufacturers make a wide array of colorful models available, to suit the fashion tastes of any bike afficionado. Flat-Foot Comfort Bicycles are a sub-category of cruiser bikes.

They have an elongated frame design that pushes the pedals a few inches forward of the seat.